Collecting Antique Axes

By: JP

Edge tools are among the earliest tool forms, with surviving
primitive axes dated to 8000 B.C.. Early axes were made by
"wrapping" the red hot iron around a form, yielding the eye of
the axe. The steel bit, introduced in the 18th century, was laid
into the fold at the front and hammered into an edge. The side
opposite the bit was later extended into a poll, for better
balance and to provide a hammering surface.

The handles took on a variety of shapes, some indicative of
origin, others relating to function. The length of the handle
had more to do with the arc of the swing that was required.
Felling axes took a full swing and therefore needed the longest
handles. Early axes have their handles fitted through the eye
from the top down and the handles remain in place by locking
into the taper of the eye, so they can be removed for
sharpening.

Later axes, however, have their handles fit through the eye from
the bottom up, and have a wedge driven in from the top. This
permanently locks the handle to the axe and was much preferred
by American woodsmen. Many axes found today had been discarded
because the handle was split or broken off. In most cases they
can be bought at a fraction of their value and, with another
handle, can be restored to their original condition. Most axe
collectors have a stock of older flea-market handles that they
use for this restoration. Like plane blades, axe handles might
have been replaced two or three times throughout the life of the
tool. As long as the handle is "proper," meaning, the right
shape and length for its function, it won't detract that much
from its value.

Pricing of antique axes runs the entire gamut from a few dollars
to several hundred. Examples of well-made axes would include the
Plumb, White, Kelly, Miller and numerous others. Beyond these
were axes of sometimes lesser quality, but built to a price, and
sold by the thousands. Exceptional examples might include
handmade axes, possibly from the local blacksmith, or from a
factory that specialized in the handmade article, regardless of
price.

There are several types of axes out there such as:

SINGLE BIT FELLING AXE: This axe is considered the workhorse of
the axe family. It is a simple design, varying from a 2 � lb.
head used by campers to the 4 � to 7 lb. head used for forest
work. There are heads used in lumbermen's competition that are
up to 12lbs.. With the advent of the two-man crosscut saw, and
later the power chain saw, trees no longer are taken down by
axes. The axe is more a utility tool for clearing branches off
the downed tree, and splitting firewood.

DOUBLE BIT FELLING AXE: Double bit axes always have straight
handles, unlike any other modern axe. Almost all axe handles are
hickory. Hickory has both strength and spring, and was found
very early to be the best for axe handles. Starting in the late
1800's a number of axe manufactures adopted intricate logos that
were embossed or etched on the head of the axe. Almost 200
different styles have been identified to date and these have
also become an interesting collectible.

BROAD AXE: The broad axe is not as common as the felling axe,
and is a lot larger. It's purpose was to square up logs into
beams. It used a much shorter swing that the felling axe,
therefore required a much shorter handle. The identifying
feature of many of these axes is the chisel edge, that allowed
the back side of the axe to be dead flat. Because of that, it
posed a problem of clearance for the hands. To keep the hands
from being scraped, the handle was canted or swayed away from
the flat plane of the axe. This is the feature that should
always be looked for when buying a broad axe. If the edge is
chisel-sharpened, then the handle should be swayed. As with the
felling axe, the broad axe heads have a variety of patterns,
mostly a result of geographical preference.

GOOSEWING AXE: The goose wing axe is one of the most artistic
looking tools out there, and it takes it's name from its
resemblance to the wing of a goose in flight. It functions
exactly as the chisel-edged broad axe, except that the American
version has the handle socket more heavily bent or canted up
from the plane of the blade. These axes are large and difficult
to forge. Many show cracks and repairs and an original handle is
rare. Signed pieces, particularly by American makers, mostly
Pennsylvania Dutch, are considerably more valuable. Also of
importance is the difference in value between American and
European axes, the American ones being worth considerably more.
A few well-known 19th century American makers whose names appear
imprinted on axes are Stohler, Stahler, Sener, Rohrbach, Addams,
and L.& I.J. White.

SHIPWRIGHT'S OR MAST AXE: This axe is used for shaping ships'
masts and timbers, and is usually ground on both sides. It
varies in length base on local usage. The double pointed ears or
lugs are common with this axe.

COOPER'S AXE: This axe has a lighter handle socket, well canted
and carries a very short handle. Although the general
differentiation between an axe and a hatchet is that an axe is
used with two hands and a hatchet with one, the cooper's axe is
one of the exceptions to the rule. It was used mostly for
shaping barrel staves, and was almost always used with one hand
while the other held the stave.

COACHMAKER'S AXE: This is an asymmetrical axe used for shaping
coach parts in almost a paring manner. The heads vary in size,
some styles taking on a "bearded" effect, hence the nickname
"bearded axe." These axes are almost exclusively of European
origin.

ICE AXE: Back in the day, ice was harvested in the winter from
ponds and lakes and stored in ice-housed for summer use. This
was an important winter cash crop for many farmers. There was a
whole family of tools developed to serve this industry, among
them was the ice axe. Again, local patterns create a variety of
styles.

FIRE AXE: These are sought-after collectibles, because many of
the older ones have the fire company's monogram on the head. All
have rear pikes used for clearing openings or creating
ventilation.

MORTISING AXE: The blade on these axes are long and narrow to
accommodate the size of the mortise hole it was designed to cut,
most often for post and beam construction or for post and rail.
Some have double bits, one bit sized for the length and the
other for the width of the hole.

TRADE AXE: Trade axes were originally brought over by the French
and Spanish and later by the English and were traded to the
Indians who held them in very high regard. They were poll-less
and small enough to be carried at the belt and used with one
hand. The larger variety were known as squaw axes and were used
by the women for chopping wood.

TURF or BOG AXE: Used for cutting turf and peat, these axes are
not heavy enough to cut wood.

HATCHET: Hatchets are small axes used with one hand.

Article Source: http://collectibles-articles.com

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